Christina Economou, Marangoni Paris

Graduate Fashion Week has the privilege of hosting some of Europe’s top design schools. This year five programs showed off a selective group of talented, up-and-coming designers. The International Award this year went to Christina Economou of Marangoni Paris.

The colours; the patterns; the fit; Christina Economou (Marangoni Paris) understands how to mix fabrics. Her expertly matched patterns and colour combinations were a sight for sore eyes. The vibrant purple check mixed with the flower print mixed with black and cream abstract it was a collection that demanded attention and earned unquestionable respect. Oh, and the cuts were also top notch. Is there anything that she didn’t hit on the mark? (Rhetorical question)

Egor Samitov, St. Petersburg

Egor Samitov (St. Petersburg) was obviously focusing on outerwear. He incorporated geometric shapes into the designs for added structure and let the shirts beneath remain unobtrusive, if not a bit sheer.

Florentsya , Lasalle

I don’t know what safari Florentsya (Lasalle) was taking us on, but I am one hundred percent attending. Her bare bones collection contained all the of structure without the meat. Corsets and safari jackets were stripped down to only the necessary bits and playfully paired with ribbon skirts and complemented by black and white tribal prints. Although I’m not sure what tribe she was musing, I would venture to say that she’ll have enough followers after this show to start her own.

Mia Budiman, Lasalle

Mia Budiman’s (Lasalle) collection entitled “Urban Nomad” was seeped in earthy tones as you would imagine, but showed a range of variations on just how urban a nomadic nymph could be. Energetic orange detailing popped against shades of olive and beige nudes and the silhouettes successfully drew from many different periods. I even enjoyed a bit of Jedi influence at the end.

Xiawen, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

The shirting and dresses by Xiauwenji (Amsterdam Fashion Institute) were simply exempt from gravity. The weightless garments could have floated down the runway on their own. The collection — in sun-baked coral, antique cream and tan — featured asymmetric draping, a killer jacket and lots of open-back romance.

Yu Kyeong Kim, Marangoni Milano

The navy and black combination was beautifully executed by Yu Kyeong Kim (Maragoni Milano). The tailoring was well handled and would have been right at home on the Dior Homme runway. Knee socks and black patent shoes gave the looks a certain quirkiness, but didn’t distract from the work. Kim was not afraid of putting the guys in a pleated skirt or two either. David Beckham is preparing his, “I told you so,” statement as I type.

Image credits: Photography by Simon Armstrong