LCF MA Colection of the Year winner, Matteo Mollinari, MA Fashion Design Technology
The MA students at LCF triumphed in London, thanks to an undoubtedly euphoric graduate show at the V&A. It was epitomised innovation. Daring design boundaries were at the forefront, amalgamating into a stunning glimpse of fashion’s latest talent for the new decade. Designers have latched onto the fact that menswear has found true recognition in the past few years, and the latest crop from the ever-prosperous LCF was no exception.
Matteo Mollinari, winner of this year’s prestigious Collection of the Year was touted as a favourite from the start. Looking shy and reserved as he collected his prize from Harold Tillman CBE of Whistles, his collection featured chunky knit overcoats, ribbed cowl-neck jumpers and slick tuxedo bolero suits in hues of charcoal and slate. As the models turned, Mollinari’s artisan skills were flaunted in ambiguous crochet inserts, transitioning a modern male silhouette with a subtle evocation of heritage techniques.
Nicholas Komar, MA LCF
Menswear continued to impress, particularly from American born Nicholas Komar. His collection featured detachable suit jackets, zipped and streamlined in gold and copper crepe; a very obvious reference to his background in industrial design.
Chang Wook Kang; Chang Wook Kang; Asger Larsen, MA LCF
The deconstructed theme was a heavy one throughout the night. Chang Wook Kang designed graphic, paint splattered prints in toxic hues of fluro fuchsia and cobalt, whilst Asger Larsen slashed away with bondage chains and top hats for his Gothic Americana collection.
Tatwasin Boat Khajeenikorn, MA LCF
Tatwasin Boat Khajeenikorn transitioned his womenswear credentials for menswear creating a collection of asymmetrical drapery, embellished and crystallised with cool open-toed worker boots dripping with sheen.
Qunying Huang introduced glorious jacquard suits that featured overlays of matte wool. Strong, boxy shapes heralded a futuristic aesthetic, whilst relaxed belted trenches paralleled the techniques of masculine tailoring.
Louise Simmond, MA LCF
The masculine silhouette was a key ideal for Louise Simmond’s collection. Models were clad in decadent evening coats and suits cut entirely on the bias. The outstanding Russian angular motif featured duly throughout each charming piece. It was a glittering combination of luxurious fabrics and sumptuous mink furs.
Joanne Power, MA LCF
Joanne Power opened the show and introduced womenswear in religiously ambiguous undertones. The hills were alive as Maria clones stalked the runway. The collection featured monochromatic slashed silhouettes.
Widely abstract; these were dresses that cocooned the body, ranging from modest black to virginal white with a flash of erotic scarlet for good measure. Nuns’ wimples became an altogether more coveted piece of headgear for the season and the elegant bracelet length leather gloves added a little S+M to the mix. Porcelain bags by Wei Wang added subtle elegance.
Dino Bodiciu, MA LCF
Dino Bodiciu meanwhile, created a luxe and decadent collection of architectural jackets that shaped the female silhouette. Mohair was woven between lapels and collars. Earthy tones of vanilla and sand soon transitioned into sexually driven crimson suits, laced with appliqué, like ornate icing around the body. The collection was based on reflections, where the use of beautifully crafted masks and millinery exemplified a distorted visual of the senses.
Tim Rhys Evans, MA LCF
Tim Rhys Evans’ high collared Victoriana gowns elaborated on further ambiguous ideals. Polka dot chiffon swathes encased the body, whilst lace was ubiquitous throughout.
Nam Young Kim; Ongun Ulker; Paul Beckett, MA LCF
Other themes for the evening included geometric purses from Yulin Xu that accessorized the Nam Young Kim collection, elaborated hip weaving from Susanna Bettencourt., napkin embellishments from Ongun Ulker and Paul Beckett’s electro-fusion of futuristic metal innovation was nothing short of the extraordinary.
Susanna Bettencourt, MA LCF
Look out for our post on the MA LCF exhibition, currently on show at Victoria House, London until February 09 2011.
MA LCF
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