French c1775; Nutters 1771; Dior Homme c2000, ManStyle

ManStyle, a new exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) is finally giving menswear the recognition it deserves. Set in two galleries, the NGV International building and the Ian Potter Centre, the exhibition showcases menswear from the 1700s through to the present day.

The development of the suit since the eighteen century is the key focus of the exhibition at the Ian Potter Centre. An English brocade jacket and French three-piece suit in embroidered silk greet the viewer as they enter the exhibition, putting the origins of the contemporary suit into context.

During the eighteenth century the silhouette of men’s coats changed from narrow on top to wide at the hem before becoming slimmer and more cut-away at the chest. As the suit developed, it lost many of its original trimmings and embellishments, transforming into a simpler ensemble.

Rogers Peet Company, New York 1921; Vivienne Westwood 1985; Royal Gloucester Hussar’s uniform c1900, ManStyle

It was around this time that Londons iconic Savile Row emerged in order to meet the high demand for quality tailoring. A gorgeous example of a tailed coat from London tailor Tagney and Randell from c. 1935 is included in the exhibition, as well as an example of a suit from Tommy Nutter of Nutters of Savile Row.

Waistcoats and vests are included in both parts of this exhibition while men’s uniforms also make an appearance. Red hunting jackets from the 1920s and a Royal Gloucester Hussar’s Uniform from c.1900 are amongst the pieces on display.

Bernhard Wilhelm c1999; Gavin Brown 1985; Rick Owens c1994, ManStyle

Contemporary suits such as Rei Kawakubo’s psychedelic velvet suit for Comme Des Garçons, Morrissey Edmiston’s snake skin suit and WORLD’s chintzy floral suit provide an ironic contrast to the elaborate eighteenth century suits.

Continuing at the NGV International galley, the exhibition explores contemporary menswear, showcasing flamboyant outfits from punk and other postmodern sub-cultures. Bold colours, prints and innovative pattern cutting are key components within these garments, offering a striking contrast to the Ian Potter Centre pieces. In addition there are two large screens showing interviews with modern men discussing their personal fashion style.

Seditionaries c1976; Peter Tully 1990, ManStyle

ManStyle runs until 30 Oct 2011 (NGV International) and 27 Nov (Ian Potter Centre).

NGV International